City of Rocks National Reserve, in the far south of Idaho near the Utah line, is a valley full of granite towers, domes and fins. Emigrants on the California Trail passed through here in covered wagons, and the name comes from the way the formations look like the buildings of a town rising out of the sagebrush. Today it is one of the classic climbing areas of the American West.
What the climbing offers
According to the National Park Service, City of Rocks has been celebrated internationally for its granite since the 1970s. The reserve has over 600 routes, graded from 5.6 for beginners up to 5.14 at the extreme end. Climbs range from 30 to 600 feet, and both traditional and sport climbers will find plenty to do.
That range of grades is what sets the City apart from many famous areas. Beginners can learn on easier slabs and cracks, while strong climbers have hard lines on steep faces, sometimes on the same formation.
What needs a permit, and what does not
The rules here are short and clear:
- You can climb established routes or scramble on rocks without a permit.
- A permit is required to place permanent anchors. This keeps route development managed and sustainable.
In practice, most visitors never need paperwork. If you plan to bolt a new line or replace fixed gear, contact the reserve first.
Closures you need to respect
Three kinds of restriction apply, according to the Park Service:
- Seasonal rock closures protect nesting raptors. They change from year to year, so check before you hike to a formation.
- The California Trail corridor: some areas along the historic trail are off-limits to climbing.
- Private land: parts of the reserve are private property, and climbing there is not allowed.
The visitor center in Almo is the place to ask about current closures.
Castle Rocks next door
Nearby Castle Rocks offers more climbing, and the Park Service mentions it as the natural extension of a City of Rocks trip. Guidebooks for both areas are sold at the visitor center. Splitting a week between the two is a good way to avoid crowds on popular formations.
The history on the rock
Before the climbers came, the valley was a landmark for wagon trains heading west. Some emigrants wrote their names on the rock with axle grease, and a few of those inscriptions can still be seen. This is one reason parts of the reserve are closed to climbing: the cultural record on the rock is as protected as the rock itself. Treat any old writing you find as off-limits.
When to go
The reserve sits at high elevation in a dry climate. Spring and autumn are the main climbing seasons, with cool mornings and comfortable afternoons. Summer can be hot on sunny faces, so climbers follow the shade around the formations. Winter brings snow and cold that close most of the climbing.
Staying safe
The Park Service asks climbers to know proper technique, use reliable equipment and check for updated route conditions and closures. A few practical points for the area:
- Granite here can be coarse and sharp. Tape up for crack routes.
- Afternoon thunderstorms can build fast in summer. Watch the sky on long routes.
- Some fixed anchors are old. Inspect them before you trust them.
- Bring all your water. Services are limited in this remote corner of Idaho.
Choosing routes on a first visit
With so many formations, the hardest part of a first trip is often picking where to start. Use a guidebook to find moderate routes on well-travelled formations close to the road, where the approach is easy and other climbers are around. If you are new to placing gear, a day with a guide is a good investment before you head to the more remote towers. Save the long multi-pitch lines for when you know how the granite takes protection.
Leave the sagebrush as you found it
The valley floor is covered in sagebrush and fragile desert soil. Stay on the existing trails between the road and the formations, and avoid creating new paths to reach a route. Pack out all trash and human waste where required, and keep camps tidy so wildlife does not learn to visit them.
Getting there
The reserve is remote. Almo is the nearest village and the site of the visitor center. Most climbers drive in from Idaho or Utah and camp in or near the reserve for several days. Fill your tank and buy groceries before you leave the last larger town on your route.
More climbing on this site
For long crack routes with a different set of rules, see climbing Devils Tower in Wyoming. If you want a bolted crag with campground access, Smith Rock State Park in Oregon is a few hours west. And if you pass through Boise on your way, our guide to river surfing standing waves includes the city’s whitewater park.
Route numbers, permits and closure information are on the National Park Service City of Rocks climbing page.