Smith Rock State Park sits in central Oregon, near Redmond, where the Crooked River has cut a deep canyon through orange and brown volcanic rock. For climbers it is one of the best known names in the country, and a lot of American sport climbing history was written on its walls. For everyone else it is a dramatic canyon with trails, wildlife and crowded parking lots on a sunny weekend.
How much climbing there is
Oregon State Parks says there are several thousand climbs in the park, and more than a thousand of them are bolted routes. That mix is what makes Smith Rock work for so many people: you can spend a trip clipping bolts, placing gear on cracks, or combining both. The park also has miles of hiking and mountain biking trails, so non-climbers in your group will not be bored.
Park staff do not give out climbing information or guide referrals. Guide services operate in the park, and the climbing community maintains route information online and in guidebooks.
Nesting closures
The canyon is home to golden eagles and prairie falcons, and that affects where you can climb. According to Oregon State Parks, some climbing areas are closed or have limited access from about January 15 to August 1 to protect nesting sites. The park says these closures usually affect lesser used areas, but they change from year to year. Look for the signs at the park kiosks and at the closed routes before you hike in.
Camping at the Bivouac
The park’s campground is a walk-in tent area called the Bivouac. What you need to know:
- It is open for camping from March 15 to November 15, weather permitting.
- Sites are first come, first served. There are no reservations.
- Fees are $12 per person per night, paid at the fee station at the entrance.
- Showers are for overnight guests only.
- RV camping and sleeping in vehicles are not allowed. The park points to county rules that prohibit sleeping in your vehicle there.
- Campfires are banned year-round because of the dry high desert climate.
If you travel with an RV or want to sleep in your car, the park suggests the Forest Service’s Skull Hollow Campground, about 9 miles north-east on Lone Pine Road, open seasonally from March 15 to November 15.
Parking and hours
A day-use parking permit is required. You can buy a one-day permit on site or use a 12-month Oregon State Parks pass. The park is open from dawn to dusk, which it defines as 30 minutes before sunrise to 30 minutes after sunset, and using the day-use area after dusk is prohibited. Plan long routes with that in mind, especially in short winter days.
Works planned from December 2026
Oregon State Parks has posted a construction advisory running from December 1, 2026 to May 31, 2027. During that period the North Point Amphitheater is closed to reservations, and the overflow parking lot, sections of the Rim Rock Trail, the North Point Loop Trail and the adjacent parking area will see periods of closure. If your trip falls in that window, expect more pressure on the remaining parking and check the park page for updates.
Rules that apply to everyone
- Rangers enforce the leash law for dogs.
- Stay on marked trails. The park describes its environment as fragile.
- Drones are prohibited year-round.
When to climb
Central Oregon is high desert. Summer afternoons in the canyon are hot, and the rock bakes in the sun. Spring and autumn are the most comfortable seasons, and winter can offer dry days on sunny walls, although nights are cold. Wherever you are in the year, bring more water than you think you need.
Getting around the canyon
The climbing walls sit on both sides of the Crooked River, and a footbridge links the main trail to the far bank. The most photographed formation is Monkey Face, a pillar whose profile looks like a face from certain angles. The Misery Ridge Trail climbs steeply over the ridge toward it, and the name is honest: it is a short but hard hike. The park’s trail map shows gentler options along the river for anyone in your group who is not climbing.
Wildlife in the canyon
Besides eagles and falcons, the park lists mule deer, river otters and beavers among the animals you can see along the trail through the canyon. Early morning along the river is the best time to spot them.
More from Oregon and beyond
If you are touring Oregon, our guide to kiteboarding in Hood River covers the Columbia Gorge a few hours north, and the warmest beaches in Oregon are an option for a rest day on the coast. For another crag where most routes are aimed at experienced climbers, see New River Gorge climbing in West Virginia.
Opening dates, fees, closures and the construction advisory are on the Oregon State Parks Smith Rock page.